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Topic-icon 59 seafair sedan questions

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4 years 8 months ago - 4 years 8 months ago #27955 by Jayarrgh
Replied by Jayarrgh on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
Ian,

You can see what the splashwell looks like on my thread 1960 Seafair Sunliner. It shows up on page 6 by my browser.

To drain any water from the closed off double hull area (if any gets there) you should put a drain plug in the forward wall of your new bilge sump. There is also a pic of that in my main thread (page 3).

You can fasten your new floor down with screws and caulking if you want to. That method makes it easy to take up again. However, I believe the original plywood floor was just glued down and covered with fiberglass cloth. It seems to have lasted a long time that way. I epoxied mine in place. I don't know what the original design had for cross supports; my floor had been messed with to add fishing chairs. I ended up epoxying in two new cross supports and then epoxying the new deck to them, the stringers and to the hull sides. Note, if the new floor doesn't lay flat on the stringers or cross supports, put in a screw here and there to get a close fit for the glue. Finally I covered the whole thing with FG cloth. I certainly hope this never needs to be taken up again. :S

-JR

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4 years 8 months ago - 4 years 8 months ago #27972 by ianmoore
Replied by ianmoore on topic 59 seafair sedan questions

I'm making a run of work over the next few days before going out of town.
I have all of the main stringers in and glued. Transom is done.
I will be glassing the stringers in with 1708 tomorrow, assuming i have enough resin.

Still mulling over the bilge sump area. I cut the keel stringer 10" from the transom. It was so close to the garboard drain that i was worried it would eventually compromise the transom wood. I have a piece cut to create a rear bulkhead sump area, but with the 1959 Splashwell design, i wouldn't be able to get to the area, and bilge pump, without taking the whole transom apart. I thought about just creating an open area there without the pump, and putting that in the front cabin, which seems to be the lowest part of the boat. My father in law, who has some boat building experience, thinks i should skip the read bulkhead and just leave that area open with the 2 side stringers tied to the transom and the center not. If I put in the bulkhead i would cut a couple of limber holes, but that seems like a sideways move when any water would easily drain aft if left open. Any reason to not leave that center stringer as it is?

I'm also starting to look at paints. I have my eyes on the Interlux brightside medium or largo blue for my topside, and zolatone for the deck and cabin. Trying to keep things in the area of the original. Any tips or feedback there? I still have a few weeks before i'm looking to buy paint




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4 years 8 months ago #27985 by ianmoore
Replied by ianmoore on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
I was hoping to have the stringers totally wrapped, but I was able to tab them in with 2 layers of 1708. I'm out of town for the next 2 weeks and then will be back at it.
The discolor around the keel stringer is from some mahogany dust that settled on the fillets. I thought they were totally cured. The glass was ground down to clean glass and the tabbing seems pretty sound.

I scored a couple of seats from a friend of mine for nothing! Psyched to have the original seat design in the boat. I need to clean them up a bit and probably reupholster them at some point, but glad to have them. He also has a splashwell from a slightly newer Seafair, which i am going to look at using. My splash-well goes almost to the deck, and has no underneath usable space, as well as precluding me from using a blige-sump area. This would allow me a much more usable space. I just need to make sure they are interchangeable( I think they are)

Now on to the next questions!
I am looking to use foamular, since our temps up here don't get in the 80's till August, and I'm not willing to wait that long! If I cut it into strips, filling along the stringers, would this create issues with water flow, should it get under the deck?







Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far> Back at it in a couple of weeks!
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4 years 8 months ago #27986 by Jayarrgh
Replied by Jayarrgh on topic 59 seafair sedan questions

ianmoore wrote: I
Now on to the next questions!
I am looking to use foamular, since our temps up here don't get in the 80's till August, and I'm not willing to wait that long! If I cut it into strips, filling along the stringers, would this create issues with water flow, should it get under the deck?


I have used Owens Corning Foamular for floatation on a previous boat. It is a good product to use because it is one of the few building insulation type rigid foams that will not absorb water if exposed over a long period. It comes in differing densities for compression strength. The less dense versions give more lift per volume. Fitting panels of it between the stringers will work fine. If the fit is a bit "loose", any water that gets in there will flow around the panels easily enough. On the other hand, if the fit is "tight" and there is little or no space around the panels, I would add a PVC tube on each side of the central stringer. The tube should span from up forward (lowest point of the hull where water could collect) back to the stern or in front of the bilge sump if you decide to build one.

We all hope that no water ever gets under the floor, but we also know stuff happens. It is good that you are planning ahead for the unexpected. A little forethought now will go a long way to preventing future problems.

-JR ;)

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4 years 8 months ago #27989 by ianmoore
Replied by ianmoore on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
Jay,
thanks a ton! Do you mind if i buffet you with a few more? I've looked through all of the pages of the forums trying to aggregate info, but there are a few things that are still unclear.

-what did you use for your topside paint? I've been looking at the Interlux line. Thinking of a brightside, but would love to hear from anyone hear in terms of color matches(even in the neighborhood). I have the powder blue/white that i think is original. All of the modern colors i am seeing are much more glossy, but then again these old pics don't have the same resolution that we know have

-I am looking to possibly substitute a later model splashwell that i found. Mine is the bathtub style, which wastes a lot of space in an already small boat. The later one allows for under-well storage. Didn't you do the same in your boat? Any things to be aware of?

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4 years 8 months ago #27990 by Jayarrgh
Replied by Jayarrgh on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
I am using Interlux Brightsides on my Sunliner. I have used it for many years. I like the paint, it has proven to be durable yet easy to apply. The paint does not fade (much) over time so it is also easy to repaint dings. However, the color choices are all bright and glossy. In my opinion, boat colors from the fifties and sixties tend to be in pastel shades and flat or satin finish.

If you look at the many classy boats on this website, you can see it is possible to match the original colors and finish fairly closely. I don't know what paint was used, somehow I doubt it was Brightsides.

I built my own splashwell partly because my original one had so many holes in it and partly because I wanted a more efficient use of the space for storage and access. I know only a little about the differences in Seafair splashwells. The original one on my Sunliner was the sloping deck kind. Some former owner had cut away part of the forward section giving better access. It would seem there are several ways to get the job done, replacing yours with a later model sounds like a good option.

-JR

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