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Topic-icon 59 seafair sedan questions

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4 years 8 months ago #27944 by Jayarrgh
Replied by Jayarrgh on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
Hi Ian,

It is just my opinion, but I would suggest you make the transom at least the same thickness as the original. :side: My 1960 transom was 1 11/16" (just under 1 3/4"). When I rebuilt it, I decided to make it stronger to better handle the heavier four stroke outboards. I did that by laminating a 5/8" piece of marine plywood to the inside as well as repairing the rotted sections. That made the final product 2 5/16" thick. Modern outboards can mount on transoms at least 2 1/2 inches thick so I wanted to stay under that dimension.

As for a bilge sump, I personally believe they are very useful. The original design, as you noted, has only a flat floor so any splashed in water just collects where-ever it feels like. A bilge sump gives it a place to go where a bilge pump can empty it overboard. The actual size is pretty arbitrary. On my Sunliner, I put in a bilge sump by using the space between the two outboard stringers and forward about 10 inches. That is a large sump for this size boat but the spacing was convienient as it tied directly to the stringers. Access for repairs is always a consideration for someone my age and size. I try to allow for that when I add equipment but sometimes you just have to live with the situation. :)

-JR

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4 years 8 months ago #27948 by ianmoore
Replied by ianmoore on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
Jay,
Thanks for the reply!
Do you have any pics of the sump? Is it a standard open sump?
Do you have a bilge pump in there? If I put one in, I would hAve to route it to an above waterl

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4 years 8 months ago #27949 by Jayarrgh
Replied by Jayarrgh on topic 59 seafair sedan questions

ianmoore wrote: Jay,
Thanks for the reply!
Do you have any pics of the sump? Is it a standard open sump?
Do you have a bilge pump in there? If I put one in, I would hAve to route it to an above waterl


Here is a pic I posted earlier showing a trial fit of two 500GPH bilge pumps and the depth sounder transducer in the sump I made. As George said, two drain plugs, one from the under floor area forward and one out the stern.



The next pic (new) is after I finished the pump/transducer installation. The exhaust hoses run port and starboard and exit the hull just below the boot stripe (well above the waterline). Note: in this boat, I put a nice size door in the splashwell structure for access. ;)



-JR
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4 years 8 months ago #27950 by gwbell
Replied by gwbell on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
JR,

As usual, your workmanship and ingenuity tend to be a great example for all of us!! :woohoo: Running the two bilge pumps is a great idea! Hopefully, you'll never need them, but if you do, your boat is guaranteed to stay afloat.

I'd love to hear more about your fuel filter set up that you show in this last pic. Are you connecting this to a couple of 6-gal tanks or do you have the long range saddle tanks?

Also, excellent idea mounting a light in that area!

Inspiring! I'm obviously very impressed...and a little envious! :huh: :blush:

George

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4 years 8 months ago #27953 by ianmoore
Replied by ianmoore on topic 59 seafair sedan questions
JR,
I concur with George. That is amazing, and inspiring, craftmanship. Humbling really.
I'm having a hard time understanding where your splashwell sits. The way the pic looks, it almost looks like a small aft cabin<g
I do also have a question about adding the bilge area, which i think i will do.
If i separate this area off from the center stringer area, it will catch any deck water that falls back to the back of the boat. What about if some water actually gets below the deck? Do you have a system to pull the water from the hull to the bilge area?

I'm also curious how you guys are treating the cross supports for the stringers and if you are screwing the deck into the stringers as well. I'm a little wary as on my boat, there was water damage where the glass had delaminated around the joint of the stringer and cross support. I have read about people pre drilling and filling with silicone before drilling. Do you find this is good enough to prevent water damage.
Do you screw the deck down(with pre drill and silicone) or glue is down and glass it in?

Thanks again. I hope to have a boat half as good looking as these when i am finished!
Ian

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4 years 8 months ago #27954 by Jayarrgh
Replied by Jayarrgh on topic 59 seafair sedan questions

gwbell wrote:
I'd love to hear more about your fuel filter set up that you show in this last pic. Are you connecting this to a couple of 6-gal tanks or do you have the long range saddle tanks?

George


George, Back when I was first working on the Sunliner, I thought over the pros and cons of fixed tanks and decided to use portable 6 gallon tanks. You may remember I accumulated a bunch of steel tanks from ebay. The final setup will have (up to) three of those tanks connected via a selector valve to a Racor filter. Two tanks starboard and one port = 18 gallons. There is space under the rear seats for a fourth tank ... to use it I would move a fuel line over from one of the other tanks. Out of the Racor filter are two lines, one for the main engine and the other (with the mini ball valve) is for an auxiliary/trolling engine. I have never used a setup as complex as this before. I believe it will work but I need an engine to prove it. :blink:

-JR

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